FUJITSU STYLISTIC LT C-500 TECH

TIM'S FUJITSU STYLISTIC LT C-500 TECH DATA AND MODS

These are a old, but useful x86 Tablet PC made by Fujitsu.

Basic specs are:-

CPU: MOBILE INTEL CELERON 500MHZ (100MHz FSB) "SL4J9"
CHIPSET: INTEL 440MX
VIDEO CARD: TRIDENT "MOBILE" CYBER 9525DVD (2.5MB RAM)
PORTS: 1 X USB 1.0 (Not Bootable).
PCMCIA: 1 SLOT (1 X Slot 1 or 1 slot 2. (Slot 3 do NOT fit!)
COMPACT FLASH SLOT: (Not Bootable) Appears as the 2nd PCMCIA Slot. Will work with Compact Flash WiFi cards. This will free up PCMCIA slot 1 to use with other cards.
PCMCIA CHIP SET: Texas Instruments PCI-1420
RAM: 1 X PC100 / PC133 SDRAM SODIMM (MAX 256MB) Looking at a mod to allow a 16 chip Low Density 512MB SODIMM.
HARD DRIVE: 1 X IDE 44 PIN LAPTOP HDD (BOOTABLE). Needs a IDE flex cable. Make sure the Tablet your buying HAS one!!!
HDD SIZE LIMIT: I thought the limit might be 8.455GB! BUT in the tech manual it says CYL:65535, HEADS:16, SECTORS:63. Which give a limit of 33.822GB.
SOUND: Intel 82440MX AC'97 Audio Controller - Sigmatel Codec. This is MEANT to be SB Pro compatible!

"OFFICIAL" OS Support is WIN98SE and WINDOWS 2000 (Comes with WIN98SE OR WIN2000 COA's (Certificate of Authenticity) attached to the HDD door.)
But should run......
LINUX (I have NOT tried this),
DOS (6.22 Confirmed, Runs fine),
WIN 3.11 (Have not tried)
WIN95 (Have not tried)
WIN98SE (Runs Fine)
WIN 2000 (Still working on)
WIN XP SP3 (Works fine. Need to write up a guide on how to do it. Its a BIT complex to do...).
Driver Packs Below.... I'll be adding more Drivers soon....

MODS: RTC / CMOS BATTERY REPLACE (Make your own replacement). Stops the unit from forgetting all its settings each time you turn it back on.
I just used a stock "tabed" CR2032 cell. Make sure you have some heat shrink to go over the full battery assembly!

NEW TYPE of Coin Cell I'm using for RTC Batteries

Its a Tagged CR2430. I use Clear 18mm heat shrink over the whole battery. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/255037990108

MODS: RUN COOLING FAN ALL THE TIME.

Connect points marked in RED. Great MOD if your running like XP to keep the CPU cool etc.

MODS: UNDER CLOCK 500MHz CPU to 333MHz

1A. Remove "0" Ohm (link) resistor in the spot marked in RED. Then place it to the spot on the left. (Left side resistor is NOT mounted / Empty.)
1B. OR remove the resistor / "0" Ohm link. Then place a new "0" Ohm link on the pads to the left. Resistors / "0" Ohm Links a are "0402" Surface mount sized.

To move the "0" Ohm links across, Dual welding of 2 soldering irons makes it quick and easy! If your going to do a lot of Surface Mount soldering, Its a must have! I have a Video on the topic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rLTwDh7Pt8

The main reason for working out this mod was to produce less heat by the CPU, And use less power. A 333MHz is still powerful enough for DOS and Win 98SE.
My "Test" Unit runs so much cooler now at 333MHz. Its a DOS ONLY build. BUT I have 98SE on there to help copy USB stick data to the DOS Partitions. WIN98SE runs fine as well at 333MHz.
I ONLY have a 64MB RAM DIMM in it as well. For my WINDOWS ONLY Builds (98SE / 2000 / XP) I run the MAX 256MB SODIMM. I'm still trying to work out how to run a 512MB 16 Chip, Low Density SODIMM in there....
The chipset supports 2 x 256MB SODIMM. SO I hope that's the back door to add more memory.

HOW TO OPEN REAR COVER

Make sure that the PCMCIA eject button is pushed IN.
Make sure the PCMCIA card is removed.
Make sure the Compact Flash Slot is empty
Remove RAM cover and module
Remove HDD cover and HDD assembly (Be VERY careful of the FLEX PCB connected to the HDD!!
Remove BLUE screw first, They are all the same.
Remove RED CASE screws, They are all the same.
Lift the case up from the RIGHT side at a angle....
You MUST clear the AUDIO jacks to the LEFT side of the picture.